By ando Kunozan Toshogu jinja, located in Suruga Ward, Shizuoka City, is a sacred site that can truly be called the “origin” of all Toshogu jinja across Japan, enshrining Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo Shogunate. Situated on the summit of Mt. Kuno, overlooking Suruga Bay, its history, architectural beauty, and the numerous stories connected to Lord Ieyasu continually fascinate visitors.
Lord Ieyasu’s Dying Wish and the Birth of Toshogu
Mt. Kuno has witnessed a rich history; it was home to Kunoji Temple, founded by Hata no Kunotadahito around the 7th century, and later Kunozan Castle was built by Takeda Shingen. Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu is said to have regarded Mt. Kuno as so important that he called it “the main keep of Sunpu Castle.” In 1616 (Genna 2), Lord Ieyasu, who ended his 75-year life, entrusted as his dying wish that “his remains be buried on Mt. Kuno.” In response to this wish, the second shogun, Lord Tokugawa Hidetada, had the main shrine buildings constructed at an astonishing speed of just one year and seven months. This marked the beginning of the present-day Kunozan Toshogu jinja.
The Magnificent Prototype of “Gongen-zukuri”
The main shrine buildings of Kunozan Toshogu jinja feature an architectural style called “Gongen-zukuri,” which connects the Honden (main sanctuary), Ishi-no-ma (stone room), and Haiden (worship hall), and is characterized by its vibrant polychromatic lacquer finish. This style became the prototype for Toshogu jinja architecture nationwide, including Nikko Toshogu jinja.
The construction of the shrine buildings was overseen by the master craftsman Nakai Yamato-no-kami Masakiyo, who also worked on Nijo Castle and Nagoya Castle. Representing the culmination of the highest architectural and craft techniques from the early Edo Shogunate period, the Honden, Ishi-no-ma, and Haiden were designated as National Treasures in 2010 (Heisei 22).
Stories and Mysteries Hidden within the Shrine Buildings
The shrine buildings of Kunozan Toshogu jinja boast numerous notable carvings and decorations. For instance, the kohai (front portico) of the Haiden features a carving of the Chinese historical anecdote, “Sima Guang Breaking the Jar.” This story, about young Sima Guang breaking a jar to rescue a friend who had fallen into it, is believed to embody Lord Ieyasu’s philosophy of valuing life.
Furthermore, while innumerable instances of the Tokugawa family crest, the Aoi-no-Gomon (hollyhock crest), adorn the decorative metal fittings of the shrine buildings, there is also the mystery of a single “inverted Aoi” hidden among them. This is said to hold the wish that “the building is not yet complete, and there is still room for further development.”
Lord Ieyasu’s Beloved Sword and a One-of-a-Kind Western Clock
The Kunozan Toshogu Museum, located within the shrine grounds, houses over 2,000 artifacts related to Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu. Particular highlights include the suit of armor called “Shida Guso,” said to have been used by Lord Ieyasu in the Battle of Sekigahara, and his beloved sword “Sohayanotsurugi Utsusunari,” which Lord Ieyasu is said to have test-cut two days before his death and, impressed by its sharpness, bequeathed it to be enshrined as a divine object.
Furthermore, a must-see is a Western clock said to have been presented to Lord Ieyasu by King Philip III of Spain. Its original mechanism remains intact, and it is considered a valuable masterpiece globally.
Access and Spectacular Views
Access to Kunozan Toshogu jinja is typically via ropeway from the summit of Nihondaira. This approximately five-minute aerial ride offers spectacular panoramic views overlooking Suruga Bay, the Izu Peninsula, and on clear days, even Mount Fuji.
Those confident in their physical stamina can also choose the main approach route, climbing 1,159 stone steps from the base of Mt. Kuno.
Kunozan Toshogu jinja is a place where the dying wish of Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu lives on. Its magnificent architecture, hidden stories, and the majestic scenery spread out below will undoubtedly offer visitors profound inspiration and a sense of historical romance.
Related Links and References
[1] Tokugawa Ieyasu and Kunozan Toshogu / Home Mate
[2] Kunozan Toshogu (Kunozan Toshogu, Shizuoka City, Shizuoka Prefecture)
[3] Was Kunozan Toshogu (Shizuoka), where Tokugawa Ieyasu was buried, a castle? Tracing the history of “Kunozan”
[4] Kunozan Toshogu – Wikipedia
[5] History of Kunozan | About Kunozan Toshogu | Kunozan Toshogu | Shizuoka
[6] Kunozan Toshogu (from the stone steps) | Official Shizuoka Recommended Tourist Spots / Sunpu Shizuoka City ~ For the Best Experiences and Impressions
[7] Kunozan Toshogu Honden, Ishi-no-ma, Haiden Cultural Heritage Online
[8] Approximately 1,159 steps to the shrine buildings! What kind of place is Kunozan Toshogu, which offers spectacular views? Introducing access methods, tours, and highlights | Travel and Tourism Media for Express Buses, Night Buses, Bus Tours [Bus Trip]
[9] https://ropeway.shizutetsu.co.jp/spot/KunozanToshogu/
[10] Kunozan Toshogu (Swords and Armor) / Home Mate
[11] National Treasure Shrine Buildings | About Kunozan Toshogu | Kunozan Toshogu | Shizuoka
[12] Kunozan Toshogu (2) Shizuoka Prefecture’s only National Treasure building | Daigoyama and Shimobe Onsen – Rakuten Blog
[13] Kunozan Toshogu / Hello Navi Shizuoka Shizuoka Prefecture Tourism Information
[14] National Designated Cultural Properties Database
[15] Shizuoka Cultural Property Navi Kunozan Toshogu Honden, Ishi-no-ma, Haiden | Official Website of Shizuoka Prefecture
[16] Visiting Stories, Legends, and Episodes of Lord Ieyasu – Kunozan Toshogu and Kunozan Castle
[17] About Kunozan Toshogu | Kunozan Toshogu | Shizuoka
[18] Kunozan Toshogu Access, Hours, Fees – Jalan.net
[19] Complete Guide to Kunozan Toshogu! Access Methods and 8 Recommended Highlights | A Collection of Shizuoka City’s Best