By ando 
Mount Tsukuba, revered since ancient times as a sacred mountain, is often called “Mount Fuji in the west and Mount Tsukuba in the east” for its beautiful form. Nestled on its slopes is Tsukubasan jinja. This location, offering panoramic views of the Kanto Plain, can truly be said to be a fitting dwelling place for the kami.
The Basics and History of Tsukubasan jinja
Tsukubasan jinja is a highly unique jinja that takes the two peaks of Mount Tsukuba, Nantai-san and Nyotai-san, as its goshintai, or sacred objects of worship. Izanagi no Mikoto is enshrined on Nantai-san, and Izanami no Mikoto on Nyotai-san. As a pair of married kami, they are believed to bestow blessings for matchmaking and marital harmony. Although its founding date is unknown, it is said that the jinja was already revered by the imperial court in the Nara Period, and its name is recorded in the Engishiki Jinmyocho, making it an ancient jinja.
Myths and Legends of Mount Tsukuba
Mount Tsukuba is home to numerous myths and legends. Among the most famous is the story of “The kami of Tsukuba and the kami of Fuji.” Legend has it that at one point, the kami of Tsukuba and the kami of Fuji competed to see which mountain was taller. Mount Tsukuba is also immortalized in the Manyoshu, Japan’s oldest anthology of poetry, and is known as a place for utagaki. Utagaki was an ancient practice where men and women would gather to exchange poems and seek partners, illustrating that Mount Tsukuba has long been a sacred place for people to meet and for life’s activities to flourish.
Unveiling the Mystery: Its Connection to Onmyodo
Mount Tsukuba has long prospered as a sacred site for Shugendo and was a central point for mountain worship. Its connection to Onmyodo (Esoteric Cosmology) has also been noted, with some theories suggesting that Mount Tsukuba’s unique topography and cardinal directions are deeply intertwined with Onmyodo thought. For instance, Mount Tsukuba is located to the northeast of the Kanto Plain, which is considered the direction of the “demon’s gate” (kimon), and is believed to have served as a guardian for the capital. Due to this background, many feel that Mount Tsukuba possesses a mystical power that goes beyond that of a mere place of worship.
Enduring Faith and Nature’s Bounty in the Modern Era
Tsukubasan jinja remains a popular power spot visited by many worshipers today. It holds particular devotion for those seeking marital bliss and successful matchmaking. Near the main shrine stands a pair of cedars known as “Fufu Sugi” (Couple Cedars), their close proximity seemingly symbolizing the divine grace of the married kami. Furthermore, Mount Tsukuba is blessed with abundant nature, allowing visitors to enjoy beautiful scenery throughout the four seasons. By utilizing the cable car or ropeway, one can easily access areas near the summit, and the superb view of the Kanto Plain from there deeply moves all who visit.
Tsukubasan jinja is truly a representation of Japan’s original landscape, where myth, legend, and abundant nature intertwine. Step foot on this sacred mountain, and you are sure to feel the breath of the ancient kami.
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