By ando 
Hofu Tenmangu jinja, located in Hofu City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, is a shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane-ko, known as the kami of scholarship. It is counted as one of “Japan’s Three Great Tenjin shrines,” alongside Kitano Tenmangu (Kyoto) and Dazaifu Tenmangu (Fukuoka). What makes Hofu Tenmangu truly special, however, is its unique history: it was actually the first Tenmangu to be established in Japan, among approximately 12,000 Tenmangu jinja nationwide.
This article provides a detailed introduction to Hofu Tenmangu, covering everything from its basic information to little-known mysteries, fascinating backstories, and must-see pilgrimage sites for anime fans.
Basic Information
Location: 14-1 Matsuzakicho, Hofu City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Enshrined kami: Sugawara no Michizane-ko (Sugawara no Michizane-ko)
Also enshrined in the aiden (auxiliary shrines) are Ame no Hohi no Mikoto, Takehinatori no Mikoto, and Nomi no Sukune (all ancestors of Michizane-ko).
Founded: En-gi 4 (904 AD)
Access: Approx. 15-minute walk from Hofu Station on the JR Sanyo Main Line, or approx. 5-minute bus ride, alighting at “Hofu Tenmangu.”
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Why is it “Japan’s First”? Legends and Mysteries of a Miracle
Michizane-ko passed away in Dazaifu (Fukuoka), where he had been exiled. But why was the first Tenmangu built in Hofu, rather than Kyoto or Dazaifu? A mystical episode lies hidden within this question.
1. Legend of the Pillar of Light in the Sea and Auspicious Clouds
It is said that when Michizane-ko stopped at Katsuma no Ura in Hofu on his way to Dazaifu, he was so captivated by the beauty of the place that he promised, “My spirit will surely return here.”
On the very day Michizane-ko died in Dazaifu, a pillar of light was said to have risen from the sea in Hofu, and auspicious clouds billowed over Mount Sakatari (present-day Tenjin-yama), the mountain behind the shrine. Witnessing this, the local people realized that “Michizane-ko’s spirit has returned,” and they built a shrine hall the following year. This is why Hofu Tenmangu was the first Tenmangu to be established in Japan.
2. The Number of Steps Represents Michizane-ko’s Age
The stone steps leading from the main approach to the haiden (worship hall) total 57 steps. This number derives from Michizane-ko’s age of 57 when he stopped in Hofu. Try climbing them step by step, reflecting on Michizane-ko’s life.
3. Water Turned into Sake?! The Origin of “Sakatari”
At Sakatari jinja, located behind Hofu Tenmangu, clear spring water once gushed from between rocks. A legend says that when people involved in the construction of the Tenmangu shrine hall drank this water, it miraculously tasted like rich sake. This legend is also the origin of the name “Mount Sakatari.”
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Behind the Wild “Hadakabo Matsuri” (Naked Men’s Festival)
The Goshinko-sai (Hadakabo Matsuri), held every November, is famous as one of the wildest festivals in Western Japan. Thousands of hadakabo (men in white ceremonial attire) fiercely jostle each other to the chant of “Kyodai Wasshoi!” (Brothers! Heave-ho!).
The purpose of this festival is to convey the message to Michizane-ko’s spirit: “Your innocence has been proven.” In the past, common people of low social status were not allowed to carry the omikoshi (portable shrine). It is said that the “hadakabo” tradition began with these men purifying themselves with cold water and serving in near-naked attire to demonstrate their “purity of body.”
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Bakumatsu-era Mysteries and the “Hagi Komainu”
Hofu Tenmangu is also a place deeply connected to patriots of the Bakumatsu era (mid-19th century). Daisenbo (Daisenbo) within the shrine grounds is known as the location where figures like Takasugi Shinsaku and Kijima Matabei held fierce debates.
There’s also an interesting backstory to the “Hagi Komainu” (Hagi guardian dog statues) on the approach. A legend tells that during the Bakumatsu era, a samurai from the Aizu domain attempted to destroy the Hagi Komainu at Kyoto’s Kitano Tenmangu, shouting “Choshu’s lions!”. Suddenly, thunder roared, and he fled in terror. Impressive Komainu statues, evoking this historical connection, are also enshrined at Hofu Tenmangu, making it an irresistible spot for history buffs.
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Anime Pilgrimage: “Mai Mai Miracle”
Hofu Tenmangu and its surrounding area are the setting for the anime film “Mai Mai Miracle” (directed by Sunao Katabuchi).
Pilgrimage Points:
The film is set in Hofu City in the 1950s. The townscape where the protagonist Shinko and her friends run around, and the atmosphere of “Tenjin-dori” leading to Tenmangu, are vividly depicted.
While the jinja itself does not appear as a main playground, it is an essential pilgrimage site for fans, serving as a symbol of Hofu and a place to feel the history of the “Suo Kokuga” (provincial office of Suo Province) from a thousand years ago.
The adjacent machi no eki Umeterrace (local station Umeterrace) sometimes features exhibitions and maps related to the film.
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Hidden Popular Spot: “Ai-ai Gasa” (Love Umbrella)
Near the haiden is a spot called “Ai-ai Gasa,” where an umbrella mark is carved into a stone. It is said that if you write your name and the name of your beloved on either side of the umbrella with your finger, your wish will come true. It is a subtly popular love power spot among young visitors.
Hofu Tenmangu, Japan’s first Tenjin-sama, has a history spanning over 1100 years. Why not visit to pray for academic achievement, experience its numerous legends and the fervor of the Bakumatsu era, and immerse yourself in the world of anime?
Related Links and References
[1] https://www.mlit.go.jp/tagengo-db/common/001552553.pdf
[2] Sugawara no Michizane and Hofu Tenmangu Hidden Ancient Secrets – Seeking and Walking through Mysterious and Moving Superb Views of Japan
http://sazanami217.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-157.html
[3] [History Mystery] Not Just Sugawara no Michizane!? Surprising Bloodline Hidden in the Kami of Hofu Tenmangu | Miroku Tamako Spiritual Ability Awakening Course Mirokudo
https://ameblo.jp/tama252588/entry-12947574387.html
[4] Goshuin Information Too! Japan’s First Tenjin-sama Hofu Tenmangu, Dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the Kami of Scholarship – Nippo Sogo Seihon
[5] Hofu Tenmangu Bakumatsu Historic Site Tour | Nakasu kara Otokode Desu
https://nakasuyellow.jugem.jp/?eid=244
[6] Hofu Tenmangu – Tabitabi Hofu – Hofu City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
[7] Goshinko-sai | Hofu Tenmangu
https://www.hofutenmangu.com/1004
[8] Archives for November 2019 | Kadota Shoji Co., Ltd. for Real Estate in Hofu City
https://www.kadota-syouji.com/date/2019/11/12/
[9] Introduce the Charms of Hofu Tenmangu “Hadakabo Matsuri” and “Tenjin Onna Mikoshi” | Coop Blog | [Official] Coop Funeral Services – Funeral/Family Funeral in Yamaguchi, Hofu, Hagi, Nagato Cities
https://yamaguchihoufu-sougikazokusou.com/blog/detail.php?id=5403
[10] Hofu Tenmangu Hofu Tenmangu (Origin, etc.) | Search Details | Multilingual Explanation Database of Regional Tourism Resources
https://www.mlit.go.jp/tagengo-db/H30-01026.html
[11] Movie “Mai Mai Miracle” Sacred Site Pilgrimage – I Went to Hofu Where History Breathes | Yoko Movie Channel
https://movielife45.com/2019/07/08/maimai-shinko-to-sennen-no-maho/
[12] Mai Mai Miracle @ Hofu City, Yamaguchi Prefecture – No Man Is an Island