By ando 
Basic Information
Location: 550-4 Hamoiioka, Sado City, Niigata Prefecture
Enshrined Kami: Itakeru-no-mikoto
Shrine Rank: A Shikinaisha (a shrine listed in ancient legal codes) of Myojin-taisha rank, Sado-koku Ichinomiya (the chief shrine of Sado Province), Former Kokuhei Shosha (a nationally designated shrine of minor rank)
Main Blessings: Traffic safety, maritime safety, industrial prosperity, disaster warding
The Land Where the “Kami of Trees” Who Turned Japan Green Resides
Watatsu jinja, located in the southern part of Sado Island, has been revered as the most prestigious “Ichinomiya” (chief shrine) of Sado Province. The main enshrined kami, Itakeru-no-mikoto, is the child kami of Susanoo-no-mikoto, and is known as the “kami of trees and shipbuilding,” said to have planted trees all over Japan.
According to legend, Itakeru-no-mikoto brought many tree seeds when descending from heaven, initially landing in Silla on the Korean Peninsula. However, saying “I will not plant them here,” he brought the seeds back to Japan and is said to have transformed the entire country, starting from Kyushu, into lush green mountains. It can be said that enshrining a kami who protects trees, which are materials for ships, on an isolated island like Sado is a natural consequence given that maritime transportation has been the lifeline of this region since ancient times.
Lost in a Great Flood? The Mystery of the “Moving Shrine”
Watatsu jinja has a dramatic history, having been at the mercy of nature’s fury. Originally, it was located upstream from its current site, in a place called “Ichinomiya.” However, a great flood of the Hamochi River in Bunmei 2 (1470) swept away the shrine buildings and all ancient documents.
It is said that at this time, only the shintai (divine body) was miraculously preserved, and the shrine was rebuilt at its present location. However, the loss of many old records due to this flood became the spark for the subsequent “Ichinomiya Dispute.”
The Untold Story of the “Ichinomiya” Struggle That Divided Sado
In fact, besides Watatsu jinja, there is another jinja in Sado that claims to be the Ichinomiya: Mononobe jinja in Mano, Sado City.
During the Edo period, a fierce dispute erupted over which was the legitimate Ichinomiya. Because Watatsu jinja had lost ancient documents serving as evidence in the flood, it nearly conceded its position to Mononobe jinja at one point. However, thanks to the dedicated efforts of the head priest and local residents at the time, and the results of historical research, Watatsu jinja was finally recognized by the government as the official Kokuhei Shosha (Ichinomiya) during the Meiji period. This battle for the “Ichinomiya position,” a struggle of pride, is passed down as an episode that speaks to the depth of faith in Sado.
Modern Guardian Deity: Why is it a Sacred Place for “Traffic Safety”?
Today, Watatsu jinja is widely trusted both on and off the island as a “guardian deity for traffic safety.” This stems from its main enshrined kami being the “kami of shipbuilding,” who has overseen maritime safety since ancient times.
It is also close to Ogi Port, which once prospered as a port of call for Kitamaebune (northern-bound ships). Seafarers crossing the rough Sea of Japan would all offer prayers at Watatsu jinja. This belief in “protecting safe travels” has transformed in modern times into a prayer for traffic safety for cars and motorcycles, and many drivers still visit this place seeking omamori (charms).
Highlights and Hidden Power Spots
The shrine grounds are enveloped in a very tranquil atmosphere, and the sando (approach path) leading to the haiden (worship hall) in particular is covered in lush greenery that evokes the divine virtues of Itakeru-no-mikoto.
Hachimangu Shrine and Mikoshi: Within the precincts, there is a magnificent mikoshi-gura (mikoshi storehouse) housing a historic mikoshi (portable shrine).
Hamoiioka Townscape: The Hamoiioka district, which is the monzenmachi (temple/shrine town) of the jinja, retains the appearance of a former post town, offering a sense of stepping back in time when explored after your visit.
Watatsu jinja has walked alongside Sado’s harsh nature. Its enduring presence, having overcome the turbulent waves of floods and disputes, is sure to impart a powerful vitality to visitors.
Related Links / References
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