The mystery of Mitarashi Dango and Yatagarasu concealed within the primeval forest — A journey into the profound depths of Shimogamo Jinja (Kamo Mioya Jinja)

Basic Information

Official Name: Kamo Mioya-jinja (Kamomioya-jinja)
Commonly Known As: Shimogamo-jinja
Location: 59 Shimogamo Izumigawacho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Enshrined Kami:
Kamo Taketsunumi no Mikoto (Kamotaketsunumi no Mikoto): A kami who opened up ancient Kyoto.
Tamayori-hime no Mikoto (Tamayorihime no Mikoto): Daughter of Kamo Taketsunumi no Mikoto. A kami of matchmaking and safe childbirth.
World Heritage Site: Registered in 1994 as one of the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.”

The Tadasu no Mori Forest That Sees Through Lies and the Mystery of the Seven Wonders

The Tadasu no Mori forest, sprawling along the approach to Shimogamo-jinja, is a vast primeval forest that preserves the landscape of Kyoto from before the Heian-kyo era. The name “Tadasu” means “to correct falsehoods,” and an ancient legend states that “if a liar enters this forest, they will incur the wrath of the kami.”

Furthermore, the shrine grounds are home to mysterious phenomena known as the “Seven Wonders of Shimogamo-jinja.” Among these are the Renri no Sakaki, a miraculous sacred tree where two out of three branches mysteriously join into one mid-trunk. It is considered a symbol of matchmaking, and tradition says that when this tree withers, another similar tree will appear somewhere else in the forest. Another wonder is Nandemo Hiiragi, the “Holly-like Leaves Phenomenon.” If any type of tree is planted around Hiraosa jinja, a subsidiary shrine next to the Romon gate, its leaves are said to mysteriously become jagged, just like holly leaves.

The Birthplace of Mitarashi Dango – An Amulet Shape Born from Bubbles

The mitarashi dango that we commonly eat today actually originated at Shimogamo-jinja.

It is believed that the Mitarashi Pond within the shrine grounds, from which clear water springs forth during the summer Doyo period, is where these dumplings were first conceived, modeled after the bubbles that rose from the pond’s surface.

What is fascinating is their shape. Traditional mitarashi dango from Shimogamo-jinja have one dumpling at the tip of the skewer, followed by four more with a small gap in between. This arrangement represents the five parts of the human body: one for the head and four for the limbs, symbolizing a prayer for warding off evil. This tradition stems from an anecdote where Emperor Go-Daigo, while scooping water from the pond, saw one bubble float up, followed by four more.

The True Identity of Yatagarasu, the Kami of Guidance

Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow famous as the symbol of the Japan Football Association, is said to be the incarnation of Kamo Taketsunumi no Mikoto, the primary enshrined kami of Shimogamo-jinja, who guided Emperor Jinmu to the land of Yamato.

For this reason, Shimogamo-jinja is highly revered as a “kami of victory” and a “kami of guidance.” It is a hidden power spot visited by people at crossroads in life, seeking to be led in the right direction.

Anime Pilgrimage: The Forest Where The Tanuki of “The Eccentric Family” Live

Shimogamo-jinja is known among fans as “a holy site among holy sites” as it is the main setting for the anime “The Eccentric Family,” based on a novel by Tomihiko Morimi.

The protagonist Yasaburo and the “Shimogamo family” of tanuki are set to live in this Tadasu no Mori forest. The vermilion Romon gate and Maidono (dance hall), which appear repeatedly in the anime’s key visuals and throughout the show, are reproduced with such high accuracy that stepping onto the grounds might make you feel as if a tanuki could be disguised and lurking somewhere. The Kamo River Delta, the confluence of the Takano River and Kamo River just south of the shrine, also features frequently in the opening sequence and important scenes. Fans are often seen crossing the stepping stones there.

Additionally, the Tadasu no Mori forest, with its “used book market,” appears in other works by Morimi, “The Tatami Galaxy” and “Night Is Short, Walk On Girl,” symbolizing Kyoto’s fantastical atmosphere.

An Inside Story of Worship: Kagami Ema for Gaining Beauty

The Kawai jinja, a subsidiary shrine located on the way to the main hall, is also a must-see. This shrine enshrines Japan’s foremost kami of beauty. It is said that if you apply makeup to a mirror-shaped “Kagami Ema” with your own cosmetics and dedicate it, you will become beautiful not just outwardly but also inwardly. The sight of female visitors earnestly applying makeup to their ema is a unique hidden gem of Shimogamo-jinja.

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