By ando 
Basic Information
Nakayama jinja, located in Ichinomiya, Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture, is an ancient shrine that has long been revered as the Ichinomiya, the shrine with the highest rank in the former Mimasaka-no-kuni (Mimasaka Province).
– Location: 695 Ichinomiya, Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture
– Main Kami: Kagamitsukuri-no-kami
– Founded: Said to be in Keium 4 (707 AD)
– Main Benefits: Ward off evil, safe childbirth, protection of cattle and horses, protection for metalworking and mining
Unique Architectural Beauty: Nakayama-zukuri and Nakayama Torii
Upon visiting Nakayama jinja, the first thing that catches the eye is the “Nakayama Torii,” a rare sight across Japan. While typical torii feature horizontal beams (nuki) that extend through the main pillars on both sides, the Nakayama Torii is distinctive because its nuki stop within the pillars and do not protrude outwards.
Furthermore, the main hall (honden) is built in a unique style called “Nakayama-zukuri” and is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. This grand structure, with its irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable roof) and tsuma-iri (entrance on the gabled side), served as a model for shrine architecture in the Mimasaka region and is a must-see.
The Legend of the “Ape Kami Extermination” Recorded in the Konjaku Monogatari
Nakayama jinja holds a famous legend recorded in the “Konjaku Monogatari Shu,” a collection of tales from the Heian period.
Long ago, an “Ape Kami” (Sarugami) demanded a human daughter as a sacrifice every year on the day of the festival. One year, to save a daughter chosen for sacrifice, a hunter from the eastern provinces appeared with his sharp hunting dogs. The hunter, acting as a substitute for the girl, entered the sacrifice box and, with his dogs, successfully exterminated the giant ape monster that appeared.
Behind the main hall is “Saru jinja,” a small shrine dedicated to this Ape Kami. Today, because “saru” (ape) can also mean “to leave” (saru), it is known as a power spot for warding off misfortune. It is also worshipped as a kami for safe childbirth, and the sight of numerous cute “ape plushies” made of red cloth dedicated here is both somewhat mysterious and enchanting.
The Mysteriously Powerful “Ibogi no Keyaki” Zelkova Tree and “Hadomeishi” Stone
At the entrance to the approach path stands the massive “Ibogi no Keyaki” zelkova tree, said to be approximately 800 years old. There is a legend associated with this tree that “warts will disappear if water collected in its hollows is applied to them,” leading it to be affectionately known as the “Wart-Removing Kami” since ancient times.
Additionally, in the nearby Miyagawa River, there is a rock called “Hadomeishi” (Feather-Stopping Stone). A legend recounts that the kami of Nakayama jinja floated a cormorant’s feather on the water and declared, “I shall take up residence wherever this feather stops,” and that feather came to rest on this very rock.
A Pilgrimage Spot for Fans of the Anime “Natsume’s Book of Friends”
Nakayama jinja is also an important pilgrimage site for fans of the popular anime “Natsume’s Book of Friends” (Natsume Yujincho).
It is said to be one of the models for the shrine appearing in the short episode “Natsume Yujincho: The Waking Stone and the Mysterious Visitor,” released in 2021. In particular, its distinctive “Nakayama Torii” and the tranquil atmosphere of the grounds enveloped by a quiet forest have been noted as perfectly embodying the world of the series. Fans walking along the approach path while recalling scenes from the show are sure to experience an even deeper sense of emotion.
Behind the Scenes: Its Role as a Guardian Kami of Cattle and Horses
Historically, one of Western Japan’s largest “Cattle and Horse Markets” (Ushiba-ichi) was held in front of Nakayama jinja. For this reason, a statue of a cow (dogyu, or bronze cow) is dedicated within the shrine grounds, reflecting a history of profound trust from people involved in agriculture and livestock farming. Even today, worshippers continuously visit to pray for the health and safe delivery of animals.
Nakayama jinja is a place where legend, history, and contemporary anime culture intersect. When you visit Tsuyama, why not immerse yourself in its mystical atmosphere?
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