By ando 
Basic Information
Name: Toyofuku Aso jinja (Toyofuku Aso Shrine)
Location: 503 Toyofuku, Matsubase-machi, Uki City, Kumamoto Prefecture
Enshrined kami: The Twelve kami of Aso, Hachiman Okami
Founded: Eisho 2 (1047 AD)
Access: Approximately 10-minute drive from Matsubase Station on the JR Kagoshima Main Line. Approximately 5-minute drive from Matsubase Interchange on the Kyushu Expressway.
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In Uki City, Kumamoto Prefecture, along the historic Satsuma Kaido road that once traversed Kyushu from north to south, stands a jinja imbued with a silence as if time itself has stopped. This is Toyofuku Aso jinja. Beyond being just a local ujigami (guardian deity) shrine, it is filled with a mysterious charm that captivates visitors with tales of Sengoku period upheavals, legends of giants, and even modern anime fans.
The ‘Lord of the Forest’ Who Has Witnessed 1,100 Years: The Giant Sacred Tree
Stepping onto the grounds, visitors are first awe-struck by a massive camphor tree (kusunoki) said to be over 1,100 years old. Standing approximately 45 meters tall with a trunk circumference of about 18 meters, its branches spread out as if to cover the entire sky.
This tree has been rooted here since before the jinja was founded, watching over its entire history. Its overwhelming vitality emits a spiritual aura so potent that visitors feel a distinct presence, as if “something resides here.”
The Mysterious Guardian Deity, Yagoro-san, and the Mystery of the Giant
Along both sides of the sando (approach path), guardian deities called “Yagoro-san” are enshrined in small miniature shrines.
Yagoro refers to Yagoro-don, a legendary giant passed down in Southern Kyushu (Miyazaki and Kagoshima prefectures). Why has the legend of this extraordinary giant, said to sit on mountains and wash his face in the sea, taken root in this Uki region?
In fact, this jinja was originally founded as a Hachimangu shrine. Yagoro-don has an aspect as a zuishin (divine attendant or guard) of Hachiman-sama, and it is believed that this belief was brought to this area via the Satsuma Kaido. These “Yagoro-san” figures depict warriors wearing large and small swords at their waists, quietly continuing to guard the sacred grounds to this day.
The Disappearing ‘Hachiman’ and the Power Struggle with ‘Aso’
Delving into the jinja’s history reveals an interesting “drama of shifting kami.”
Originally, Hachiman-no-kami was enshrined by Regent Fujiwara no Yorimichi (or Michitaka). However, when the Kamakura period began and this area came under the influence of the Aso clan, Aso jinja and Kosa jinja were ritually combined.
Over the years, the presence of Hachiman-no-kami, who was originally the main enshrined deity, gradually faded, and the influence of the Aso jinja grew stronger. The hengaku (votive tablet) displaying “Aso Sangu” (Three Aso Shrines) still hanging today is a remnant of that history.
Anime Pilgrimage: Seeking the Atmosphere of Natsume’s Book of Friends
Toyofuku Aso jinja is known among fans of the popular anime Natsume’s Book of Friends as a hidden “atmospheric pilgrimage site.”
While the main setting of the series is the Hitoyoshi-Kuma region, it is said that various old jinja and Buddhist temples throughout Kumamoto Prefecture serve as inspiration for the work, as the author, Yuki Midorikawa, is from Kumamoto Prefecture.
The moss-covered stone walls, aged torii (jinja gate), and the overwhelmingly impressive giant tree at this particular jinja perfectly embody the “world where yokai (supernatural beings) might lurk.” As you walk through the grounds, listening to the sound of the wind echoing in the quiet, you might feel as if Natsume Takashi or Nyanko-sensei are right there beside you.
Hidden Highlights: Komainu with Fangs and the Three Wise Monkeys
Scattered throughout the grounds are other mysterious details, such as slim komainu (lion-dog guardians) with long fangs, dedicated in 1933 (Showa 8), and stone statues of the “Three Wise Monkeys” (mizaru, iwazaru, kikazaru – see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil), which are rare in Aso-affiliated jinja.
Once the guardian deity of Toyofuku Castle, receiving prayers from samurai warriors, and during the Edo period, watching over the daimyo’s sankin-kotai (alternate attendance) processions of the Satsuma Domain, Toyofuku Aso jinja invites you to immerse yourself in the mysteries of history and legend while bathed in the dappled sunlight filtering through the giant tree.
Related Links and References
[1] The Twelve kami of Aso – Kyushu no Jinja
[2] Toyofuku Aso Jinja, a Jinja with a Large Camphor Tree Along the Satsuma Kaido | Harada Office Weblog
[3] Higo Province Shrine Register Reiwa Edition: What I Learned from a List of Kumamoto Shrines | Harada Office Weblog
[4] Sabagami Pass: A Difficult Section of the Satsuma Kaido Where Two Fierce Battles Unfolded in History | Harada Office Weblog
[5] Travel Around Famous Japanese Spots That Became Anime Settings! Recommended Sacred Site Pilgrimage Guide | WoW! Japan Fun