By ando 
Basic Information
Location: 2-4-65 Takajomachi, Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture
Enshrined kami: Lord Yamanouchi Kazutoyo, the first lord of the Tosa Domain; his wife, Chiyo (Kenshoin); and the successive lords of the Tosa Domain
Access: Approximately 5 minutes walk from the “Kencho-mae” tram stop on Tosaden Kotsu. The jinja stands on the banks of the Kagami River, very close to Kochi Castle.
A Place Where the Legend of “Naijo no Ko” Breathes
When discussing Yamanouchi jinja, the story of Chiyo (Kenshoin), wife of the first lord Yamanouchi Kazutoyo, is indispensable. The legend of “Naijo no Ko” (the admirable efforts of a wife in helping her husband succeed) is incredibly famous: during difficult times, Chiyo offered her dowry (ten ryō of gold) to Kazutoyo, enabling him to buy a famous horse. This caught the eye of Oda Nobunaga, and Kazutoyo rapidly climbed the ranks. Within the jinja grounds, not only Lord Kazutoyo but also Chiyo are enshrined together, and worshippers constantly visit to pray for marital harmony and success in life.
The Image of Yamanouchi Yodo, a Man of Turmoil in the Late Edo Period: “A Whale When Drunk, the Ocean When Drinking”
A magnificent bronze statue of Yamanouchi Yodo (Toyoshige), the 15th lord and one of the Four Wise Lords of the late Edo period, stands on the grounds. Lord Yodo, who called himself “Geikai Suiko” (The Drunken Lord of the Whale Sea) and loved sake and poetry, petitioned Tokugawa Yoshinobu for the Taisei Hokan (Restoration of Imperial Rule) from this very place, significantly changing the course of Japanese history. What the statue holds in its hand is, surprisingly, a sake cup. You can behold his very rare yet approachable figure, typical of a Tosa person known for their love of sake.
A Must-See for Ghibli Fans! A Sacred Site from the Anime “Ocean Waves”
Yamanouchi jinja and its surroundings are known as an important setting for the Studio Ghibli anime “Ocean Waves”. The jinja approach path where the protagonists walk and the embankment of the adjacent Kagami River are exactly as depicted in the atmospheric scenes of the film. Even now, many fans visit for “seichi junrei” (anime pilgrimage) to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the anime. Furthermore, in director Mamoru Hosoda’s film “Belle”, the Kagami River flowing beside the jinja also appears in impressive scenes, making it a spot that attracts both new and old anime fans.
A Historical Backstory: Was It Once Inside Kochi Castle?
In fact, Fujinami jinja, the predecessor of Yamanouchi jinja, was originally located inside Kochi Castle. In the Meiji period, following the abolition of the han system and establishment of prefectures, it was relocated to its current site (the former location of the Yamanouchi family’s lower residence). The adjacent “Former Yamanouchi Family Lower Residence Nagaya” (row house) is designated as a National Important Cultural Property, preserving the appearance of a samurai residence from that era.
Mystery and Highlights: Ryoma’s Memories Sleeping in the Kagami River
The Kagami River, which flows just south of the jinja, is also known as the place where Sakamoto Ryoma practiced swimming in his childhood. One cannot help but feel the irony and romance of history that Ryoma, who later became the driving force behind the overthrow of the shogunate, grew up right next to a jinja dedicated to the Yamanouchi family, his “lords”. As you stroll through the jinja grounds at dusk, listening to the murmuring of the Kagami River, you’ll be enveloped in a mysterious feeling as if the turbulent history of Tosa is quietly speaking to you.