By ando 
Iwaki-yama Jinja (Iwaki-yama Shrine) is nestled at the foot of the magnificent Mt. Iwaki in Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture. Affectionately called “O-Iwaki-sama” by locals, it is the largest power spot in the Tsugaru region, boasting a history of over 1200 years. This jinja, sometimes referred to as “Oku-Nikko” (Inner Nikko) due to its gorgeous and splendid shrine buildings, conceals numerous mysterious legends and fascinating stories you’ll want to share.
Basic Information
Location: 27 Terazawa, Oaza Hyakuzawa, Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture
Enshrined Kami: Iwaki-yama no Okami
Utsushikunitama no Kami (= Okuninushi no Kami)
Tatsuhime no Kami
Ukanome no Kami
Oyamatsumi no Kami
Sakanoue no Tamuramaro no Mikoto
Blessings: Good fortune and prosperity, business success, matchmaking/love, fertility, and more.
The Mystery of the Upside-Down Komainu: Boost Your Luck?
Alongside the stone steps leading to the Romon (Gate Tower, a National Important Cultural Property) of Iwaki-yama Jinja, sits a rare “upside-down komainu” (guardian dog statue), unique in Japan.
It is said that taking a photo with this komainu can improve your luck.
Komainu looking up: Improves financial luck
Komainu looking down (upside-down): Improves love luck and matchmaking
Its dynamic posture, as if clinging to the tamagaki (shrine fence), leaves an unforgettable impression. Be sure to look for it when you visit.
Legend: The Gentle Oni Without Horns and Sakanoue no Tamuramaro
Legends related to Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, the Seii Taishogun (Commander-in-Chief of the Expeditionary Force Against the Emishi), remain at Iwaki-yama Jinja.
It is said that one of the origins of the current Iwaki-yama Jinja dates back to Enryaku 19 (800 AD), when Tamuramaro, having received the divine protection of Iwaki-yama no Okami during his pacification of the Tohoku region, rebuilt the shrine buildings on the mountaintop.
Furthermore, this region has a unique culture where “oni” (ogres/demons) are revered as kami. While related to the nearby Oni Jinja, the oni of Mt. Iwaki are considered “good oni” who built a weir and brought water to the villagers. The character for “oni” (鬼) on the shrine’s hengaku (framed plaque) lacks the upper stroke (ノ) that represents horns. This depicts oni not as terrifying beings, but as guardian kami.
Mystery: The Mountain’s Wrath? The Taboo of Anju and Zushi-o
Mt. Iwaki holds a tragic mystery related to the famous story of Anju and Zushi-o.
According to legend, if people from Tango Province (present-day northern Kyoto Prefecture), the birthplace of Sansho Dayu who tormented Princess Anju, climb Mt. Iwaki, the mountain kami would become enraged and cause a storm. In the past, it was believed that the weather would worsen if someone from Tango entered Tsugaru, and there were even instances where people from Tango were actually refused lodging. This makes it a mysterious place with a historical “taboo.”
Pilgrimage Site: The Setting of the Anime ‘Flying Witch’
Iwaki-yama Jinja is also known as a pilgrimage site for the popular anime “Flying Witch,” which is set in Hirosaki City.
Episode 2: The torii gate and sando (approach path) of Iwaki-yama Jinja are beautifully depicted in the scene where “Haru no Hakobiya-san” (the Spring Deliverer) descends from the sky and meets the protagonist, Makoto, and her friends.
Original Comic Volume 1: The model for the cover art is said to be Gankisan Jinja, also known as the original shrine of Iwaki-yama Jinja. However, in the anime itself, the solemn atmosphere of Iwaki-yama Jinja is faithfully reproduced, and even those who are not fans will surely be overwhelmed by its sacred ambiance.
Points for Visiting: The Straight Approach Path and the ‘Headless Jizo’
The long sando (approach path) extending from the torii gate to the haiden (worship hall) stretches directly towards the summit of Mt. Iwaki. It is said that simply walking along this path allows you to fully absorb the powerful energy of the mountain.
Additionally, along the sando, there is a mysterious stone statue known as the “Headless Jizo,” which speaks to the depth of ancient folk beliefs.
Iwaki-yama Jinja is where the history, legends, and anime world of Tsugaru intersect.
Step inside, and you’ll find yourself in a mystical time that makes you forget the everyday. When you visit Aomori, be sure to experience the power of this sacred mountain firsthand.
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