By ando 
In Fujii-dera City, Osaka Prefecture, right in the heart of the Mozu-Furuichi Kofun Group, a UNESCO World Heritage site, there exists a jinja with a truly unique landscape. This is Sawada Hachiman jinja (Sawada Hachiman Shrine). While it appears at first glance to be a quiet local ujigami (guardian kami) shrine, it hides a curious sight that would surprise even railway enthusiasts, and a great mystery where ancient kings sleep.
Basic Information
Location: 1-15-1 Sawada, Fujii-dera City, Osaka Prefecture
Enshrined kami: Homutawake no Mikoto (Emperor Ojin)
Access: Approximately a 10-minute walk from Hajinosato Station on the Kintetsu Minami Osaka Line.
A Train Runs Through the Sando? A Jinja with a Level Crossing, Rare Even Nationwide
The first thing that surprises visitors to Sawada Hachiman jinja is the structure of its sando (approach path). Right in the middle of the sando, which you walk after passing through the torii gate and heading towards the haiden (worship hall), the tracks of the Kintetsu Minami Osaka Line boldly cross.
There is a level crossing (Sawada No. 1 Level Crossing) within the sando, and when the barrier goes down, worshippers must wait for the train to pass. This scene, where a train appears to cut through the sacred grounds, has become a famous photography spot among railway enthusiasts and photography lovers. Why did it turn out this way? It is said that when the railway was laid during the Meiji era, the route passing through the jinja’s precincts was the shortest. However, it is also a mysterious spot that makes one feel the broad-mindedness of the people of that time who allowed a train to cross the jinja’s sando, and the passage of eras.
The Astonishing Fact: The Jinja Itself Sits Atop a Kofun (Ancient Burial Mound)
The greatest characteristic of Sawada Hachiman jinja is its location. In fact, this jinja is built on the tumulus (burial mound) of a kofun called “Sawada Hachimanyama Kofun.”
This kofun is believed to be a circular kofun about 35 meters in diameter (or possibly a square kofun), and is considered one of the baicho (smaller kofun accompanying a larger kofun) located right next to the massive “Nakatsuyama Kofun.”
The stairs you climb to reach the haiden are, in fact, the slope of the kofun itself. It is a truly mysterious and awe-inspiring structure, knowing that an ancient dignitary might be sleeping beneath our feet as we offer our prayers to the kami.
Legends and Untold Stories: The Vanished ‘Giant Pine’ and Local Guardianship
There is a legend that a giant pine tree once stood tall within the jinja’s precincts, large enough to serve as a landmark from afar. That pine was said to have served as a guidepost for ships sailing nearby and for travelers, but unfortunately, it no longer remains today.
Furthermore, this area is close to the home base of the ancient influential Hani clan, and the spirit of those involved in kofun construction still permeates the soil. Sawada Hachiman jinja might be acting as a “lid,” connecting those ancient memories to the present day.
Key Points for Your Visit
The jinja grounds are usually very quiet, but the sound of Kintetsu trains passing echoes every few minutes. The moment when “sacred tranquility” and “modern railway” intersect creates a unique atmosphere that can only be experienced here.
It is an excellent place to stop by during your tour of the World Heritage kofun, but please be extremely careful when crossing the level crossing. Why not feel the flow of time, from ancient to modern, in this wondrous space where kami and trains coexist?
Related Links / References
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