Por ando El Kunōzan Tōshōgū, ubicado en Suruga-ku, Shizuoka-shi, es un lugar sagrado que puede considerarse el «origen» de todos los Tōshōgū jinja del país, al consagrar al venerado Tokugawa Ieyasu, el primer shōgun del shogunato Edo. Se sitúa en la cima del monte Kunōzan, con vistas a la bahía de Suruga, y su historia, belleza arquitectónica y las numerosas leyendas relacionadas con Ieyasu nunca dejan de cautivar a quienes lo visitan.
La última voluntad de Ieyasu y el nacimiento del Tōshōgū
Kunōzan tiene una historia marcada por diversas transformaciones; en la antigüedad, alrededor del siglo VII, existía un templo llamado Kunō-ji, fundado por Hata Kunō Tadanori, y más tarde, Takeda Shingen construyó el Castillo Kunōzan. Se dice que Tokugawa Ieyasu le concedía tanta importancia a este monte Kunōzan que lo denominaba «la fortaleza principal del Castillo Sunpu». Y así, en el segundo año de la era Genna (1616), Ieyasu, tras cerrar sus 75 años de vida, dejó como última voluntad «enterrar sus restos en el monte Kunōzan». Cumpliendo con esta última voluntad, el segundo shōgun, Tokugawa Hidetada, ordenó la construcción de los pabellones del jinja a una velocidad asombrosa, en tan solo un año y siete meses. Este fue el comienzo del actual Kunōzan Tōshōgū.
El prototipo del espléndido y suntuoso «Gongen-zukuri»
Los pabellones del Kunōzan Tōshōgū presentan un estilo arquitectónico conocido como «Gongen-zukuri», que conecta el honden (salón principal), el ishi-no-ma (sala de piedra) y el haiden (salón de oración), caracterizado por su suntuosa policromía y acabado de laca. Este estilo se convirtió en el prototipo de la arquitectura de los Tōshōgū jinja en todo el país, incluido el Nikkō Tōshōgū.
La construcción de los pabellones estuvo a cargo del maestro artesano Nakai Yamato no kami Masakiyo, quien también trabajó en el Castillo Nijō y el Castillo Nagoya. Aquí se congregan las mejores técnicas arquitectónicas y artesanales de los inicios del shogunato Edo. El honden, el ishi-no-ma y el haiden fueron designados Tesoros Nacionales en el año Heisei 22 (2010).
Historias y misterios ocultos en los pabellones del jinja
Los pabellones del Kunōzan Tōshōgū albergan numerosas esculturas y decoraciones que merecen ser admiradas. Por ejemplo, en el kōhai (pórtico frontal) del haiden, se encuentra grabado el cuento chino «Sima Wen-gong Rompe la Jarra». Esta historia narra cómo el joven Sima Wen-gong rompió una jarra para salvar a un amigo que había caído en ella, y se dice que en ella reside el pensamiento de Ieyasu de valorar la vida.
Además, en los herrajes decorativos de los pabellones, innumerables «Aoi no Gomon» (escudos de malva real), el emblema familiar de los Tokugawa, están grabados. Sin embargo, también existe el misterio de un único «Sakasama Aoi» (malva real invertida) oculto entre ellos. Se dice que esto encierra el deseo de que «el edificio aún no está terminado y tiene potencial para un mayor desarrollo».
La espada favorita de Ieyasu y un reloj occidental único en el mundo
El Museo Kunōzan Tōshōgū, situado dentro del complejo del jinja, alberga más de 2.000 objetos relacionados con Tokugawa Ieyasu. Destacan la armadura «Shida Gusoku», que se dice fue utilizada por Ieyasu en la Batalla de Sekigahara, y su preciada katana «Sohayanotsurugi Utsusunari». Se cuenta que Ieyasu la mandó probar dos días antes de su muerte y, asombrado por su filo, la legó para que fuera consagrada como objeto divino.
Además, el «reloj occidental» que se dice fue un regalo del rey Felipe III de España a Ieyasu, es una visita obligada. Su mecanismo original se conserva intacto, lo que lo convierte en una pieza de valor incalculable a nivel mundial.
Acceso y vistas espectaculares
Para acceder al Kunōzan Tōshōgū, lo más habitual es utilizar el teleférico desde la cima del monte Nihondaira. Durante el paseo aéreo de aproximadamente 5 minutos, se extiende una vista panorámica espectacular, abarcando la bahía de Suruga, la península de Izu y, en días despejados, incluso el monte Fuji.
Además, quienes confíen en su resistencia física pueden optar por la ruta del Omotesando (camino principal de acceso), que consiste en subir 1.159 escalones de piedra desde la base del monte Kunōzan.
El Kunōzan Tōshōgū, donde el legado de Tokugawa Ieyasu sigue vivo. Su magnífica arquitectura, las historias ocultas y el majestuoso paisaje que se extiende a sus pies, sin duda brindarán a los visitantes una profunda emoción y un sentido de romanticismo histórico.
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