By ando 
Basic Information
Name: Suiten-gu (Kurume Suiten-gu), the Grand Head Jinja
Location: 265-1 Seshimamachi, Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture
Enshrined Kami: Amenominakanushi-no-kami, Emperor Antoku, Taira no Takakura Chugu (Kenreimon-in), Ni-i no Ama (the Nun of the Second Rank)
Divine Blessings: Safe childbirth and fertility, protection from water-related disasters, safety in fishing and navigation, protection of children
Suiten-gu is a jinja located in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture, on the banks of the Chikugo River. This is the grand head jinja for all Suiten-gu shrines across Japan, and even as far as Hawaii. The Suiten-gu in Nihonbashi, Tokyo, also originated when the Arima clan, lords of the Kurume Domain, enshrined a branch of the kami at their residence during the Edo period. It stands as the venerable pinnacle of “kami of water.”
The Legend of ‘Amagozen’ Born from the Tragedy of Dannoura
The history of Suiten-gu begins with the tragic episode of the Battle of Dannoura in 1185.
When the Taira clan met its demise, the child Emperor Antoku, just 8 years old, was embraced by his grandmother, Ni-i no Ama, and cast himself into the sea with the words, “Even beneath the waves, there is a capital.”
At that time, a court lady named Azechi no Tsubone Ise survived and fled to the banks of the Chikugo River. She built a small shrine to enshrine the spirits of Emperor Antoku and the Taira clan, which is said to be the origin of Suiten-gu. She later changed her name to Chiyo and was revered by the local people for performing incantations and prayers (kaji kito). Thus, the jinja was initially called “Amagozen Jinja.” Even today, locals affectionately refer to it as “Suitengu-san.”
Mystery: The Vow of ‘Kusenbo,’ Who Commanded Nine Thousand Kappa
Kurume Suiten-gu preserves a very unique legend about kappa.
Once, nine thousand kappa led by “Kusenbo” lived in the Kuma River in Kumamoto. However, their mischief became too much, and they were expelled by Kato Kiyomasa.
Losing their home, the kappa vowed to Lord Arima, the lord of Kurume Domain, “never to cause trouble again,” and were permitted to live in the Chikugo River. Since then, it is said that the kappa became messengers (shinshi) of Suiten-gu and began protecting people from water-related disasters.
Within the shrine grounds, you’ll find charming kappa stone statues, including a “Nade Kappa” (stroking kappa) which is said to bring blessings if you caress it. Additionally, a “Kappa Mask” is available as a sacred souvenir. It is believed that displaying this mask in the kitchen will ward off fire and water calamities.
The ‘Love Story’ and ‘Loyalty’ Hidden in the Camellia Crest
The sacred crest (goshinmon) of Suiten-gu is the camellia (tsubaki). It is rare for a jinja to have a camellia as its crest, but there are two theories explaining this.
One theory relates to the tragic love story between Emperor Antoku and a maiden named Tamae-hime. The other theory is that the founder, Ise (Chiyo), devoted herself to the Taira clan and loved the camellia, which blooms nobly with evergreen leaves even in winter.
Even today, many camellia trees are planted on the shrine grounds, showcasing their beautiful appearance as the “Camellia Jinja” during their blooming season.
Pilgrimage Information: Immerse Yourself in the World of the Anime ‘The Heike Story’
Kurume Suiten-gu can be considered a very important spiritual pilgrimage site for fans of the anime ‘The Heike Story,’ which aired in 2022.
The Battle of Dannoura depicted in the anime’s climax, and the final moments of Emperor Antoku and Kenreimon-in (Tokuko). This grand head jinja is an indispensable place for understanding where their souls ultimately arrived and how they are enshrined.
Visitors will be able to feel firsthand how the “prayers” of the Taira clan, as depicted in the anime, are still carefully preserved today on the banks of the Chikugo River.
Behind the Scenes: Bakumatsu Loyalist ‘Maki Izuminokami’ and Suiten-gu
In fact, Maki Izuminokami, known as a leader of the Sonno Joi (Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians) faction during the Bakumatsu period, was the 22nd chief priest (guji) of this Suiten-gu.
He became one of the spiritual pillars of the Meiji Restoration but was defeated in the Kinmon Incident and committed suicide on Mount Tennozan. Within the shrine grounds, there is also the “Maki Jinja,” dedicated to him, making it a spot for history enthusiasts to reflect on the turmoil of the Bakumatsu era.
Suiten-gu stands with the magnificent flow of the Chikugo River behind it. There, the sorrow of the Taira clan, the gratitude of the kappa, and the passion of the Bakumatsu period still quietly breathe.
Related Links / References
[1] Kurume Suiten-gu: The Grand Head Jinja. Chief Priest Maki Izumi was a Royalist Loyalist | Dazaifu Charm Discovery School
[2] The World of Kappa | Issue 53 We Need Yokai: Mitsukan’s Journal ‘Water Culture’ | Mitsukan Water Culture Center
https://www.mizu.gr.jp/kikanshi/no53/11.html
[3] Why Kappa?! | Kurume’s Charm | Kurume City Promotion
https://www.kurumepr.com/main/170.html
[4] The Story of Suiten-gu and the Arima Family by Kealii | Chuo City Tourist Association Correspondent Blog
https://tokuhain.chuo-kanko.or.jp/detail.php?id=1396
[5] A Mysterious Connection Felt at Suiten-gu (Grand Head Jinja) [Stroll Essay] | Yushinken [Entertainment Banzai!]
https://note.com/uthink69/n/n03ddd55e3066
[6] https://www.kurumepr.com/site_files/file/2021/202107/p1fafhngi3sjvm461dh3193qio04.pdf
[7] Suiten-gu Area | Higuchi Law Office
https://ahiguchi.com/stroll/%E6%B0%B4%E5%A4%A9%E5%AE%AE%E7%95%8C%E9%9A%88/
[8] https://www.kurumepr.com/site_files/file/2021/202107/p1fbjd5vihqua11nhihp16lk1u1v4.pdf
[9] [Fukuoka Prefecture] Suiten-gu’s Grand Head Jinja and a Royalist Loyalist / Kurume City – History Exploration Blog Rekimaron
[10] Suiten-gu’s Kappa Mask – Souvenir Collection 257 BRUTUS No.852 | Miyagemon | Magazine World
https://magazineworld.jp/brutus/miyagemon/miyagemon-257/
[11] Suiten-gu (Kurume City) – Wikipedia
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B0%B4%E5%A4%A9%E5%AE%AE_(%E4%B9%85%E7%95%99%E7%B1%B3%E5%B8%82)
[12] 501 Not Implemented
[13] https://kurumesite.com/1621/
[14] Information about Suiten-gu | Suiten-gu
https://www.suitengu.or.jp/annai
[15] Suiten-gu | Tourist Spot | [Official] Fukuoka Prefecture Tourism/Travel Information Site “Crossroad Fukuoka”
https://www.crossroadfukuoka.jp/spot/12694
[16] Suiten-gu in Kurume, connected to the Taira Clan | ISAO
https://note.com/anno_web/n/n3301dd09b711