By ando 
Saruga jinja, located in Hirakawa City, Aomori Prefecture, is one of the most prominent sacred sites in the Tsugaru region, boasting over 1200 years of history. Its extensive grounds feature a mystical pond, and it has long attracted fervent devotion as a guardian deity for agriculture, traffic safety, and particularly for eyesight. However, beneath this beautiful scenery lie chilling legends and intriguing mysteries.
Basic Information
Location: 175 Saruga Ishibayashi, Hirakawa City, Aomori Prefecture
Enshrined kami: Kamitsukeno-kimi Tamichi-no-mikoto
Founded: Traditionally in Enryaku 12 (793 AD) / Shrine buildings constructed in Daido 2 (807 AD)
The Corpse Becomes a Giant Serpent? A Chilling Legend Once Called “Shinshaguu”
Tamichi-no-mikoto, the main enshrined kami of Saruga jinja, was a military commander dispatched during Emperor Nintoku’s reign to quell a rebellion in the Tohoku region. However, he was struck by a poisoned arrow during battle and died.
The mystery begins here. When his enemies (the Emishi) attempted to desecrate his tomb, a legend states that Tamichi-no-mikoto’s corpse transformed into a colossal serpent, repelling them by spewing venomous breath.
Because of this, the shrine was once known as “Shinshaguu,” and designs depicting dragons and snakes can still be seen throughout the shrine grounds. This serpent kami legend is also why Tamichi-no-mikoto is considered a guardian kami for those born in the Year of the Dragon or Serpent.
The Kami Who Arrived on a White Horse
According to shrine tradition, the divine spirit of Tamichi-no-mikoto was not originally present in this area. During a great flood in 567 AD, it is said that the spirit, riding a white horse and using driftwood as a boat, rode the currents and arrived at the present-day Saruga area. The local residents enshrined this spirit in a hollow of an old tree, which is considered the origin of the current jinja.
The Mystery of Kagamigaike Pond, Where ‘One-Eyed Fish’ Swim
Kagamigaike Pond, located within the shrine grounds, has a slightly poignant and mysterious story associated with it.
Long ago, when the kami of Saruga slipped and fell, it is said that he poked his eye with a stalk of the udo plant, becoming one-eyed. Since then, a legend holds that the fish living in this pond are born ‘one-eyed’ as a substitute for the kami.
From this legend, a unique custom persists to this day: worshippers praying for recovery from eye ailments abstain from eating ‘udo’, a plant that the kami is said to dislike.
Northernmost Japanese Lotus and ‘Flying Witch’ Holy Site
A symbol of Saruga jinja is the abundance of lotus flowers that cover Kagamigaike Pond. This area is considered the northernmost natural habitat in Japan for ‘waren’ (Japanese lotus). From mid-July to late August, the sight of pale pink flowers adorning the water’s surface is truly breathtaking.
This fantastic scenery is also a special place for anime fans.
Related Anime: ‘Flying Witch’
Saruga jinja appears in episode 11 of the popular anime ‘Flying Witch’, which is set around Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture. It depicts a scene where the main characters, Makoto and her friends, visit Kagamigaike Pond, which is filled with blooming lotus flowers, and cross a red bridge leading to Munakata jinja, which floats in the center of the pond. Visitors can enjoy the scenery, which perfectly captures the peaceful atmosphere of the anime, as an actual pilgrimage site.
Additionally, the adjacent Seibien Garden is said to be one of the models for the setting of Studio Ghibli’s film ‘Arrietty’, making it a popular spot for many fans to visit both locations.
Highlights for Your Visit
The Honden (main sanctuary) is a late Edo period construction and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Aomori Prefecture. The carvings of ‘Aun-no-makiryu’ (A-Un coiled dragons) adorning the kohaisha (front shrine hall) are so powerful they seem ready to leap to life, evoking the dignity of the kami’s serpent incarnation.
During the summer lotus season, limited edition goshuin (red seal stamps) are also offered. Why not contemplate the legendary mysteries while enjoying the beautiful flowers and history?
Related Links and References
[1] Saruga jinja | A Complete Guide to the History, Highlights, and Visiting Information of this Esteemed Shrine – Wanotto Media
[2] Saruga jinja | Jinja.com
[3] Saruga jinja / Year of the Serpent… Snake! – Aomori’s Rainman, Shrine Tour
[4] Saruga jinja – Wikipedia
[5] Saruga jinja | Shrine and Temple / Power Spot Tour by Wheelchair
[6] Aomori Prefecture Jinja Agency – Shrine Introduction – Saruga jinja
[7] Sansha jinja “Oniko of the Torii” Red Fundoshi Blue Oni | Hirakawa City Tourism Association
[8] Tsugaru’s Sacred Site Saruga jinja, The Legend of the Enshrined Kami is Interesting – Saruga Park 1 | Mine / Sekihijunyu / History Walk
[9] Saruga jinja
[10] Saruga jinja – Nobody Introduces Tsugaru
[11] Legend of Water “Saruga jinja” – Tsugarumichi 35 – Leisurely and Thoroughly! –
[12] Saruga jinja
[13] Lotus Flower Festival to See in the Northernmost Region | Marutto Aomori Search Site “Pomitto!”
[14] [Anime Pilgrimage] Flying Witch – Official BikeJIN
[15] Flying Witch Pilgrimage Map / 3 Filming Locations | AniTabi
[16] #02 Saruga Park Lotus | Hirakawa City PR Site “Hirari Hirakawa Biyori”