By ando 
Shimane Prefecture, Okinoshima Town, the mysterious island of “Oki” floating in the Sea of Japan. Here stands Mizu-Wakasujinja, boasting over 1,000 years of history and commanding immense reverence from the islanders. It holds the highest rank of ‘Oki-no-kuni Ichinomiya’ (the foremost jinja of Oki Province) and was once renowned as a ‘Myojin Taisha’ (Great Jinja with a distinguished kami), on par with Izumo Taisha. It is one of the island’s premier power spots.
This time, we will delve into the intriguing legends passed down at this jinja, along with heartwarming ‘behind-the-scenes stories’ unique to the island.
Basic Information
Location: 723 Gun, Okinoshima Town, Oki District, Shimane Prefecture
Enshrined Kami: Mizu-Wakasunomikoto
Divine Blessings: National development, maritime safety, protection of the Sea of Japan
The Unique Architectural Style: “Okizukuri”
Mizu-Wakasujinja’s Honden (main sanctuary) is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The greatest highlight is its unique architectural style known as “Okizukuri,” which can only be seen here.
In fact, this style is a luxurious construction that incorporates the best features of Japan’s three major jinja architectural styles.
The front shape is “Shinmei-zukuri” from Ise Jingu.
The roof shape is “Taisha-zukuri” from Izumo Taisha.
The kohai (front eaves, the projecting roof part) is “Kasuga-zukuri” from Kasuga Taisha.
These elements merge to create a simple yet powerful beauty, unique to Oki.
Legend and Mystery: The Kami Who Appeared from the Sea
A dramatic legend of divine descent remains for the enshrined kami, Mizu-Wakasunomikoto.
According to tradition, the kami is said to have appeared “from the sea” at Igo Beach. From there, the kami crossed Mt. Omine and entered the present-day Goka district.
There is also a theory that this kami is a sibling kami to the kami of Tama-Wakasunomikoto Jinja, located on the same island. It is said that these two jinja protect the front and back sides of the island.
A Heartwarming Behind-the-Scenes Story: “Jinjo Sumo” – Sumo Without a Winner or Loser
Within the grounds of Mizu-Wakasujinja, there is a magnificent sumo ring (dohyo). However, the “Oki Classical Sumo” held here has a surprising rule that astonishes outsiders.
The rule is to “have two bouts, always ending in one win and one loss, resulting in a draw.”
This sumo, held through the night during major celebrations such as the Honden Sengu (rebuilding of the main sanctuary, including roof re-thatching) every 20 years, is also known as “Jinjo Sumo” (Humane Sumo). It is a tradition filled with the wisdom and kindness of the islanders, reflecting their desire to live together on a small island without leaving grudges due to wins or losses, instead praising each other.
The grounds were also a filming location for the movie “Kon-Shin” (released in 2013), which was based on this classical sumo, and a commemorative monument stands here.
Hidden Gems within the Grounds
Turtle Chozuya: As you proceed along the sando (approach path), a rare “turtle-shaped” chozuya (water ablution pavilion) greets you. As you purify yourself, ponder the origins of why it’s a turtle.
Mizu-Wakasujinja Kofun Cluster: Immediately behind the jinja grounds, there are scattered kofun (ancient burial mounds) believed to date from the 5th to 6th centuries. This mystery spot tells the story of how this area was a sacred site even before the jinja was established.
Daruma Omikuji: Next to the haiden (hall of worship), you’ll find adorable “Daruma Omikuji” (fortune slips inside Daruma dolls), each with a unique expression. Why not choose one just for yourself as a souvenir of your Oki journey?
Advice for Visitors
Mizu-Wakasujinja is said to possess strong power to protect the sea, so much so that even the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force visits to pray for safe voyages.
It’s about a 20-minute drive from Saigo Port. The surrounding area also features the “Oki Folk Museum” and the “Tsumame Folk House,” a grand farmhouse from the Edo period, making it an area where you can experience Oki’s history in its entirety.
Mizu-Wakasujinja is where the island’s harsh nature and the warm hearts of its inhabitants intersect. Step inside, and you are sure to feel the powerful presence of the kami who guards the Sea of Japan, as well as an atmosphere of nostalgic “human warmth” (jinjo).