By ando 
Sarusawa-ike Pond is a renowned sightseeing spot in Nara. Did you know that on its banks stands a small jinja shrine with a slightly mysterious atmosphere? This is Uneme jinja, a sessha (auxiliary shrine) of Kasuga Taisha.
This time, we will introduce a poignant and mysterious legend hidden in the shadow of the vibrant ancient capital, along with intriguing untold stories related to this place.
Basic Information
Location: Hashimotocho, Nara City, Nara Prefecture (northwest bank of Sarusawa-ike Pond)
Enshrined kami: Uneme no Mikoto
Divine blessings: Matchmaking, purification
The Legend: The Tragedy of Uneme, Who Died for Her Love for the Emperor
An Uneme was a court lady in ancient Japan, chosen from powerful local clans to attend to the Emperor’s personal needs.
According to “Yamato Monogatari” (Tales of Yamato), during the Nara period, a beautiful Uneme received the Emperor’s favor. However, as time passed, the Emperor’s visits became less frequent, and she grieved her fate. She hung her robes on a willow tree by Sarusawa-ike Pond and tragically took her own life by throwing herself into the pond.
Deeply regretting her death upon hearing the sad news, the Emperor built a shrine on the pond’s bank to console her spirit. This is believed to be the origin of Uneme jinja.
The Mystery: The Shrine Hall That Turned “Backward” Overnight
When you visit Uneme jinja, you will notice a peculiar sight. While shrine halls are typically built facing the worshipers and the torii gate, the hall at this shrine stands with its back completely turned to the torii.
A mysterious untold story explains this phenomenon:
“Although a shrine hall was built for her, the spirit of Uneme found it too painful to look at the pond where she had drowned. So, overnight, she turned the shrine hall around to face away from the pond.”
To this day, it remains enshrined in that position, and only the back of the hall can be seen from the pond. The legend that her profound sorrow even altered the physical orientation of the building continues to leave a strong impression on visitors.
Highlights: The Uneme Matsuri Festival Held on the Mid-Autumn Full Moon
Hana-ogi Honou Gyoretsu (Flower Fan Dedication Procession): Led by a “Hana-ogi” (flower fan) adorned with the seven flowers of autumn, standing approximately 2 meters tall, people dressed in junihitoe (twelve-layered ceremonial robes) and Tenpyo-era costumes parade through the city.
Kangen-sen no Gi (Gagaku Boat Ritual): At night, Ryuutou-sen (Dragon-head boats) adorned with dragon heads and Gekishu-sen (Legendary Bird-head boats) adorned with legendary birds float on the illuminated Sarusawa-ike Pond. As gagaku (ancient court music) plays, the boats circling the pond create a truly enchanting spectacle.
Ito-uranai (Thread Divination): On the night of the festival, it is believed that if one can thread a needle under the moonlight, their wishes will come true and they will be blessed with good relationships. Despite the legend of tragic love, Uneme jinja is now also revered as a “power spot for matchmaking.”
Anime Pilgrimage Information: The Setting for the Anime “Beyond the Boundary”
The area around Sarusawa-ike Pond, where Uneme jinja is located, is also known as a pilgrimage site for the popular anime “Beyond the Boundary.”
In the anime, Sarusawa-ike Pond and its surrounding scenery are faithfully depicted in scenes where the protagonists live their daily lives and during important moments. While Uneme jinja itself is a small shrine, its unique atmosphere on the pond’s bank beautifully links with the anime’s fantastical and somewhat poignant worldview. Fans might enjoy contemplating the legend of Uneme while searching for angles that match scenes from the anime.
Points to Note When Visiting
Normally, the gates of Uneme jinja are tightly closed, and visitors cannot enter. However, it is possible to view the “backward-facing shrine hall” from beyond the fence. Additionally, the “Kinukake-yanagi” (Robe-hanging Willow), where she is said to have hung her robes, has been re-planted by the pond.
When gazing at the magnificent five-story pagoda of Kofukuji Temple across the pond, remember that at its base, quietly stands the “backward-facing shrine,” holding the poignant emotions of a woman from the past.
Related Links and References
Uneme jinja – The Mystery of the Shrine by Sarusawa-ike Pond
[Kasuga Taisha x Uneme jinja’s Hidden Mystery] A Trip to Nara with a Historical Novel in Hand | Holidays with Books
Uneme jinja | Spots & Experiences | Nara City Tourist Association Official Website
501 Not Implemented
Uneme jinja / Moon Rising over Sarusawa-ike Pond / Uneme Matsuri – Japan’s 100 Famous Moons
Uneme Matsuri / Festivals and Kami
Uneme Matsuri | Nara Sightseeing Recommended Guide
7 Anime Pilgrimage Sites in Nara Prefecture! A Charming City that Evokes the Atmosphere and History of the Ancient Capital | DEEPLOG
Uneme jinja’s Illusory Matchmaking Charm [TOMO] | Japanese-Made Specialty Foods & Goods Gift and Present Online Store – TOMO Genshin Official Store
Uncovering the Great Vengeful Spirit Feared by the Fujiwara Clan – Delving into the Darkness of Nara’s Sarusawa-ike Pond, only possible in a novel! Takashi Takada’s “The Vengeful Spirit of Uneme: Koyoaya Shunsuke’s Absent Lecture” (Shincho Bunko) to be Released July 29! | Shinchosha Co., Ltd. Press Release
Temple and Shrine Walk | Uneme jinja | Nara City | Who was Uneme who Threw Herself into Sarusawa-ike Pond? | xicano
Uneme Matsuri / Uneme jinja (Sarusawa-ike Pond Bank) | Events | Nara City Tourist Association Official Website
Uneme jinja | Nara iko